In-Depth
with Christina Pallmann
By
RussianRiverTravel.com Writers John Haggard & David Defries
(Page 2/2)
...CONTINUED
Christina, a political science major from Berkeley, falls
seamlessly upon her extensive knowledge obtained during her chemistry classes
at Santa Rosa Junior College and Molecular Biology background form her Masters
at Davis.
Enjoying an elegant wine such as Christina’s
Fritz Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2004 is always a pleasure. But the experience
is heightened when sharing it with the one who made it. Christina is equally expressive
and detailed in her descriptions of each vintage and varietals she has produced
since being at Fritz Vineyards.
THE ROAD TO
FRITZ WINERY It takes many life experiences to reach
that plateau of certainty where genius is found.
In her twenties, Christina chose to go back to France,
instead of Germany as her parents had wanted. Christina’s description of
her life in Paris is “sublime”. She’d fallen in love, as is
the custom, but for only a time.
“This Pinot is gorgeous, but the lasagna is
so savory, let’s move on to the Zinfandel…”
Fritz
Winery
24691 Dutcher Creek Rd.
Cloverdale, CA 95425
(707) 894-3389
The Tasting Room is open daily 10:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.
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Having yet to drive the curves of Westside road from Healdsburg,
we chose, reluctantly, to leave the rest of Christina’s Fritz Pinot Noir
2004 in the glass (a sumptuous mouthful of rich fruit) and move on to a taste
of the 2004 Zinfandel, which, as suggested by the maker, would really work better
with our spicy lasagna; and, indeed this spicy Zinfandel did just that.
Lasagna and Zinfandel takes us to Christina at twenty-eight.
Throughout Christina’s international travels a consistent pleasure in her
life had always been fine wine: from her brother marrying into the Latour family
to her early twenties in Paris, it was now that she realized to make a career
of her passion.
And so, back to France. Christina found herself at Chateaux
Lascombes in Bordeaux, just slightly, by accident, fortunately, right next to
Chateaux Margaux. Accommodations at l’Ascone were less than bare –
her memories of rats chewing her mattress, dark walks to work through the cellar
but not being allowed to work in the famous wine cellar did not dishearten her.
Once she happened upon the “Tete” (the “town fool”) in
the cellar sneaking a little taste direct from the barrels: she kept his secret,
though not being allowed herself such a privilege.
But opportunities for advancement in France didn’t
come so easily to the girl who spoke French with an American accent and had no
direct family history in the French wine industry, and so, Christina came back
to the San Francisco Bay Area in the late 80’s.
“After a short stint as the world’s worst waitress
at the London Wine Bar in San Francisco’s Financial District, I worked for
the Pacific Wine Company and came into contact with Bill Maher. Bill gave courses
in German, Italian and French wines and was inspirational in helping me find my
way in the US wine industry.”
Not wanting to hit a glass ceiling, Christina chose to
go for a Masters at Davis and, at the same time, worked a vintage at Luna in Napa
Valley, persuading them to allow her to do research for her thesis there. Only
50% graduated from the twelve in her class.
Post Graduation she returned to France, (to finally be
allowed to work in the hallowed halls of a French Winery), to work for Michel
Rolland at Ch. Le Bon Pasteur. Michel is a renowned international Wine consultant
who is featured in the Indy documentary about winemakers “and the new wine
scene”. His palate is known to be one of the best in the world, and, as
Christina delicately suggests, “you play tennis with McEnroe, you improve
your game, you taste wine with Michel Rolland…”
Christina further developed her palate in Burgundy with
the world-renowned winemaker Jacques Seysses at Domaine Dujac and, then in New
Zealand where she worked at Felton Road with Blair Walters. Why New Zealand? “Because
I wanted to learn how they make such beautiful wines.” Christina spent a
year traveling throughout the vinous regions of New Zealand and spent far more
money than she earned gathering quite a collection of wine.
Christina and her New Zealand wine collection returned
to the States in 2000 where, after a year working back at Luna in Napa Valley
she moved on to Gallo as a research winemaker in 2001. In 2002, she was introduced
to and hired by Merry Edwards to work for Fritz Winery.
“I can do the math. But deep down, though quite practical,
I’m an artist. Merry taught me how to use chemistry as color. Though I love
France, it’s constrained by tradition and rules, with little room for innovation.
The French saw me as American, the Americans see me as European.”
“I suppose our Fritz Ruxton Chardonnay is a European
Chardonnay: delicate, ethereal, smell it just once. Our Russian River Chardonnay
has more volume and is showier, more American.”
And, Christina Pallmann produces both exquisitely: a child
of the world, making wines of the world…
Fritz
Winery is located in Dry Creek California at 24691 Dutcher Creek Road, Cloverdale,
CA. Telephone 707.894.3389. Tasting room open daily 10:30am to 4:30pm.
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